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Wednesday, 02 July 2008

  • Final Entry

    Well I've been back in America for over two weeks now, but I know I promised one last entry to tell about the events that took place in May, and to give a general conclusion to the whole experience.  Being back in Iowa is starting to feel pretty normal again, but at first it was totally strange.  Iowa City is a town that never changes much, although the water level apparently is far less predictable.  It still feels like the Linz experience just came and went, and sometimes it's like it never even happened.  Sometimes I'll see a picture of the main square or of a group of friends appear on my screen saver and I'll start to miss people and places.  But otherwise I'm staying much more busy in Iowa City than I ever was in Linz, so there isn't much time to get nostalgic or think about the friends I may never see again. 
    Since I've been back there are two questions that I can always count on being asked, and I hate both of them.  To be fair, they are pretty standard questions, questions I would probably ask anybody coming home from a similar trip.  The first one is, "so how was it?"  There is really only one answer to this question, "oh you know, it was good."  And that's the answer everybody expects to hear.  But how am I supposed to describe 9 months to someone?  The other question is, "So what's next?"  Truly, this is a question I ought to be putting more thought into, but I think I've still got a good amount of time to relax before I need to start making any big future plans.  It's a fair question to ask, but I just hate saying, "well...I think I'll just hang out in Iowa City for a while."
    Here's what happened in June, I'll just write a few sentences about each city I visited:
    Freiburg - The city and the Black Forest are really beautiful, except when it rains all day and you're stuck in a hostel with nobody you know and a group of loud, obnoxious Canadians.  Freiburg is in Southwest Germany, near the French border, and right in the heart of the Black Forest.  I went to a bar both nights I was there and met some really cool characters.
    Dortmund - I saw a whole group of people I studied with, there was a sort of exchange student reunion the weekend I was there.  Unfortunately I only got to hang out with all of them for one night, so I was saying hello and goodbye to them all over again.  And it felt totally weird, like I'd never left.  At the end of the night I had to walk back to where I was staying, and to do so I had to cut through a field.  The five others stood in the street and watched me walk away through the dark field while they waved and sang the "So long, farewell..." song.  It was the best goodbye ever. 
    Utrecht - The town has the canals and architecture similar to Amsterdam, except it's much less crowded.  But there also isn't much to do except wander around the streets and look at the pretty buildings.  My hostel was really unique, and they had an art exhibition there on the second night I was there.  I also shared a bunk with an Austrian, so we went out a couple nights and watched the European Championships.
    Berlin - Berlin remains one of my favorite cities in the world.  I stayed with Drew's family, and he was able to show me around the parts of Berlin that I would have otherwise never discovered.  We spent most of our time in East Berlin, perhaps one of the most hip places in the world.  There was a new art gallery on every block, and the young people walking around looked like they were straight out of New York's hippest club.  It amazes me that just over 60 years ago the streets were filled with gun shots and tanks, and now it's swarming with tight jeans and really big sunglasses. 
    Leaving Linz was an emotional experience.  It's really strange to think that I may never ride on the tram again (something I did for probably 3 hours every day), or I may never meet a friend in the main square again, or sit along the Danube on a beautiful day.  By the end of May I had a pretty close group of friends in Linz, and we ended up spending a lot of time together.  Hopefully I'll see some of them again, I'm sure I'll see Drew and Erik again, who knows about the others.  But, I've been through the whole thing before, and I realize that's just how life works, and really I ought to just be happy that I had the experience.  I look forward to seeing all of you again this Summer in America.

    Downtown Utrecht

    A good view of the Black Forest

    Big tower in Utrecht

    The town of Freiburg

    Typical Holland

    The last photo of the adventure.

Thursday, 29 May 2008

  • Spring Happenings

    It's been a while since I last wrote, mostly because I haven't been on any major trips since Budapest, but plenty of things have been going on the past few weeks.  May has been a really warm month, and it's a month filled with Austrian holidays.  Most of the month I've spent sitting on the river, on a lake, or sitting outdoors at a cafe.  We found a really nice lake near the University, it's even been warm enough to swim there a few times.  The water is cold, but not unbearable, and there are rafts in the middle of the lake to swim to. 
    The weekend after Budapest, a group of 10 or so of us went to a town called Krems for the Donau Music Festival.  On the way, our train stopped in Amstetten (the town where they discovered the guy keeping his daughter and children in a basement dungeon), we couldn't help but take a few pictures of the "welcome to Amstetten" sign.  The highlight of the festival was a band called Naked Lunch.  They played in a small church with a big screen behind them, there were a few short films and the band played a sort of live-soundtrack to the films.  We didn't get any hostel in Krems, instead we decided to wait for the first train back to Linz in the morning.  The festival ended at 3 or so, and the first train was at 5, so we were stuck in the small town, tired and tipsy.  In the end I think we got back to Linz around 9 or so in the morning.
    A friend of mine here has a car, and a few weeks ago we decided to take a day trip with the car.  We didn't really know where to go, but the idea of being in a car again was exciting.  An art student told us to visit a lake about a half hour away, saying it was the most beautiful lake in Upper-Austria.  It was a big disappointment; the lake seemed dirty, small, and nothing really worth seeing.  But I got to drive back to Linz, and it was fun to drive again.
    Last weekend we went to Melk, the city where the name Oesterreich (German for Austria) was first mentioned, to see the town's famous monastery.  The building is very similar to the one in St. Florian, just a bit bigger, and the surrounding area is prettier.  Just yesterday, I finally took a guided tour of the St. Florian monastery, and I actually thought it was much nicer than the one in Melk (even though Melk is much more famous).  Most of the Melk tour was spent in a new museum that doesn't really look like the rest of the building.  The gardens of Melk, however, were really nice, and the library was, by far, the best part of the tour.  St. Florian was nice because we saw all parts of the monastery (including the cellar where Anton Bruckner is buried, and a collection of skulls from the Crusades), and our tour group was much smaller and more informative.  It's always strange for me to be in these massive Baroque churches because they are beautiful, but sometimes simply over-the-top, and I can't help but think that maybe the effort it took to collect all of the gold and marble to build these places probably could have been used for better causes. 
    Tomorrow is my last day work, which is totally strange to think about.  I think tomorrow night Erik, Simon, Drew, and I will host a bbq/going away party.  I'm getting excited to come home (and totally excited to get out of the student home).  But, at the same time, Linz has been my home for the past 8 months, and it will be sad the last time I walk around the town.  The going-away party might get kind of emotional too.  We've made a really good group of friends here (mostly students from the Art University), and I see most of these people everyday.  It's weird to think that some of them I may never see again.  But that's how it was in Dortmund, and I'm sure as soon as I get on the plane I'll be ready to get back to Iowa. The next time I write will probably be my last entry, but I'll have a lot to talk about.  Next week I'll spend about a week and a half traveling through Germany and maybe making a stop in the Netherlands.  Stay tuned.

    We also visited this small town outside of Linz, called Steyr. 

    Melk Monastery.

    On the deck of the Monastery, enjoying the view of the rolling hills.

    I also had a moustache for the day.  Just the day.

    The lake.

    A typical May afternoon in Linz.

Wednesday, 23 April 2008

  • Budapest

    Another city on the list of places I need to see before going home – I can’t believe it’s already almost May – got crossed off the list this weekend.  Erik came to Austria with a few friends from his college, I guess if you study German at St. John’s in Minnesota, it’s sort of mandatory to apply for the Austrian Fullbright.  One of his friend’s, Dave, lives in a small town outside of Vienna and he has come to visit Linz a few times so we’ve gotten to know him a bit.  Erik told us that Dave suggested we go to Budapest to celebrate his birthday.  We met Dave on the train with a bottle of Jagermeister and told him happy birthday, he took the bottle and said, “thanks, my birthday was two weeks ago, but we can pretend it’s my birthday for the weekend.”  I’m having trouble finding a good way to describe Dave, I don’t want to make him sound like an asshole, because he isn’t, but that could very easily be your first of impression of the guy.  He enjoys sarcasm perhaps a bit too much, and more or less just doesn’t put up with people if he doesn’t want to put up with.  Once you get to know Dave, you realize he’s not really as mean as he likes to think he is.  And he’s a good person to travel with because his sense of direction – something I lack, thanks mom – is unbelievable, and he’d been to Budapest before.  Dave liked playing tour guide, and he actually knows a lot about the city, but it was also clear that some of the things he told us were totally made up.  I think by the end of the first day he was getting tired of playing tour guide, conversations went something like this:

    “Dave, what’s that building?”

    “Oh, that’s the national museum of shut the fuck up.”

    For the first time this year, I used the memory card on my camera to its full potential.  Actually, I took way more pictures than necessary.  I was the only one who remembered to bring a camera, so I was in charge of documenting the weekend, which got really annoying.  Simon and Dave made me take pictures of anything they thought looked funny just to get on my nerves.  I have pictures of people kissing the park, balconies that have weird stuff on them, window washers, and a cloud that Dave thought looked like an alligator. 

    The Budapest public transportation workers were on strike for part of the weekend – why does this keep happening all over Europe? – so we walked everywhere.  By the end of everyday we were all whining about how our feet hurt.  But we saw a lot of the city.  Budapest is split by the Danube into two sides: Buda and Pest.  We were staying on the Pest side, the side with the parliament buildings and most of the major museums.  The Buda side is much hillier and, in my opinion, much prettier.  Beneath Buda is a network of caves, something we were tempted to check out, but the weather was way too nice to spend the day in a cave.  An interesting fun fact from tour guide Dave (one that’s actually true): the busses are much smaller on the Buda side because the regular sized busses were too heavy and were making the streets sink into the partially hollow hill. 

    Most of our time was spent walking to the major buildings, walking up to the castle, and sitting in parks drinking beer.  I got Monday off work, so we were all able to stay for an extra day.  Budapest is known for having really fancy thermal baths.  We decided it would be a good way to relax on Monday morning before taking the train back to Linz.  Everybody else had swimming trunks, I didn’t bring any.  Dave had been to the bath before and he said they would loan me what he described as a loin cloth, but he said it didn’t do much in the way covering things up.  I was ok with that; I figured it would be a more authentic experience.  But, when we arrived they had a swimming suit rental desk.  The bath was in an old hotel, and the building itself was worth paying to get into.  The baths were surrounded by intricate tile designs and fountains.  We started in a pool that was about as warm as a usual bath, then moved to a pool that was more like a hot tub.  After soaking in the two pools for 15 minutes or so, we moved to the steam room.  One can really only stay in the steam room for a few minutes, it is almost unbearably hot.  Once you get inside it hurts to move, it hurts to breathe, even blinking your eyes becomes painful.  After the steam room we jumped into a cold bath and started to process over. 

    Feeling refreshed, we got on the train back to Austria.  I’m not sure what’s next on my list of places to visit, but there is talk of going to Graz next weekend.  I think I’ve decided to go back to Dortmund in June, we’ll see.  It’s safe to say: I’m on the home stretch here.  May is full of holidays, and school is getting more enjoyable and easier.  Most of the students have warmed up to me and I’ve gotten to know them better.  It’ll be sad to leave Linz, I’ve made some good friends in the past month or two, but I will be so happy to get out of the dorms.  It’s about 2:30 in the afternoon now, and Max is still sleeping, he’ll probably be there until the sun goes down.  I don’t know how his body does it.  I just get so sick of not being able to play loud music or practice my ukulele because he sleeps all day.  Anyways, enough venting about dorm-life, I don’t spend enough time in my room to really get annoyed.


    The Pest side of Budapest.

    John and Erik sitting in a tree.

    A view of both sides of the city.

    The guys thought this was a really funny statue. I don't get it.

    Walking towards a cathedral.

Thursday, 20 March 2008

  • Croatia

    My mom just called, worried that something horrible happened in Croatia because I sent her an e-mail that just said, "it was an adventure, but we made it home safely."  Knowing her, she probably assumed that "an adventure" meant that I got pick-pocketed or that Drew and I had to fight our way out of a Croatian torture dungeon.  Fortunately, nothing that extreme happened.  In fact, it was more than I could have hoped for.  Here's how the "adventure" went:
    We left Linz at around 2 or so on Sunday and 8 hours and 3 trains later, we were in Zagreb, the capital of Croatia.  Our bus to Split didn't leave until about midnight, so Drew and I decided to get a few beers before catching the bus.  It seemed like a clever idea, after a few beers we'd just sleep our whole way there and wake up refreshed on the beach.  We failed to consider whether the bus had a toilet.  Sure enough, ten minutes after departure, I was searching the bus for its facilities, which of course didn't exist.  Thank god, after two hours, the bus made a pit-stop.  For the second half of the trip, I was able to get maybe an hour of sleep, but it was far from a deep-sleep. 
    I knew that we were going to arrive in Split really early, but it seemed like we had a pretty good plan worked out: find our hostel right away, they would surely have a waiting area or lobby where we could rest for a bit, and then check in at our scheduled time, 8 a.m.  That's not exactly how things worked out. 
    We got off the bus, and surprisingly neither of us felt tired at all.  My senses were keen; I knew we had to find our way through a strange and dark Balkan country.  I read an article a few months ago by a psychologist (whose name escapes me), who said that babies are much more mentally active than any full-grown adult.  For a baby, everything is new and exciting, and their senses are always being bombarded with unfamiliar things.  But I'm sure most of us need at least 10 seconds to even remember what we had for lunch yesterday.  Adults get in a routine that often doesn't require a great amount of mental stress (driving to work, cooking, eating, watching the new "Office" episode).  Traveling, however, is a very different experience.  Everything is new again, that's why you'll never forget your vacation from ten years ago, but very easily forget your car ride to work by the end of the day.  In any case, Drew and I weren't affected by our lack of sleep, we were wide awake and ready to get to the hostel. 
    That proved to be much more difficult than we expected.  In the middle of Split is the Diocletian palace, and we knew that our hostel was somewhere inside of its walls.  The palace is an amazing place, but much larger than we would have thought.  If we weren't so worried about wandering around a strange place at 5 in the morning, it would have been a really wonderful experience.  The streets in the palace are extremely narrow and beautiful, we felt like we really were in an old castle.  Unfortunately, it's very difficult to find a specific street in an old castle.  A nice old nun approached us, we showed her the street name we were looking for, and she said she knew the way, but after a few minutes of following her, we realized she didn't really know her way around.  By about 6 we found our very poorly marked hostel, but there wasn't a sign of life to be seen.  We decided that they wouldn't open until 8, when we said we would check in.  So we spent the next two hours wandering around the city, sitting on benches and trying to find ways to kill time.  It was really strange, we had moments of total delirium; laughing at everything and having a really good time, and then feel totally exhausted.  Finally at 8 we went to the hostel, and the owner said we couldn't get to our room until 10:30 because she had to clean the place.  This was discouraging, but we found a nice beach and spent the next two hours sitting on the rocks and enjoying the warm weather.
    Eventually we got our room and took a good nap, by 3 in the afternoon we were ready to explore the town with clear heads.  Split is surprisingly big, actually with more inhabitants than Linz, but beautiful in every direction.  The town is surrounded by mountains, and the shore is lined with palm trees.  It felt like a real Spring break.  We spent most of the day walking along the water and relaxing, it was also nice to explore the palace after some rest.  There's something really amazing about sitting on a rock and seeing nothing but water, perhaps that has something to do with being from Iowa.  I was so happy that it didn't rain that day, spending 5 hours without a hostel would have been totally miserable if we were soaking wet.
    The next day we woke up to a storm, and even had to run through some penny-sized hail.  But, we decided to take a boat to an island not far away called Hvar, and as soon as we arrived the skies had cleared.  Everybody had told us to visit Hvar, and they certainly had good reason.  The place is really amazing.  When we got off the boat to the island, we really had no idea where to go, but people were getting onto a bus, so we decided it was a good idea to follow them.  The bus was a scary experience.  Around every corner was a cliff with the ocean below us, and the driver liked to take the corners at roller coaster speed.  We made it to the city of Hvar quite quickly (faster than necessary probably) and it was absolutely beautiful.  Hvar looks like a fairy-tale, you'll see from the pictures. 
    I was determined to eat some good seafood in Croatia.  Split has some really massive fresh fish markets with every type of seafood you could ever hope for.   The day before, when we were wandering around waiting for the hostel to open, we saw the fishermen coming in with their daily catch, and a few hours later they were selling every imaginable type of seafood at the market.  Drew and I got a kick out of seeing buckets full of octopi, and what's even stranger: people were actually buying them.  For a few hours everyday, the entire palace smells like squid.  So in Hvar, I ordered the seafood pizza.  I was hoping for something like my grandparents and I got in Rome, but it wasn't quite as exotic.  I really wanted to get a pizza covered in really strange, gooey, seafood that would slide down my throat.  There's something that is fun about eating really strange foods.  I remember when I was younger and my cousin Jeff and I would pretend that everything on our plates was either brains, or intestines, or something equally disgusting.  Still it is difficult to understand why that that is so fun, but somehow it's entertaining.  When I was on vacation in Colorado with my parents years ago, my dad tricked me into eating cow testicles.  But I wasn't at all mad about it, in fact, we thought it was pretty funny.  Maybe it's a guy thing.  Anyways, my pizza just had tuna and shrimp, nothing too strange. 
    After the day on the island we took the boat back to Split and went to bed pretty early.  The trip was probably a good bonding experience for Drew and I - we shared a double bed surrounded by hearts.  I guess the online hostel description of a double room wasn't quite what we expected.  The train and bus ride home went much more smoothly, and I spent most of today in my bed recovering.  It's difficult to choose which pictures to show on the blog, but here are a few:

    On the beach in Split.

    The view of Hvar from above.

    A picture of Split with some yachts more expensive than any house in Iowa City.

    Contemplating life's deepest secrets on a rock in Split.  This is how we spent most of our vacation.  This is exactly how I wanted to spend my vacation.  I'm getting really sick of visiting the tourist destinations and spending a day following a map to things that I really know nothing about.  It was great to just spend a few days sitting on the water.

    It took me a minute - and a few attempts - to get the timer on my camera correct. 

    The sun rising on Split.  This picture was probably taken at 6 in the morning in a complete daze.

Friday, 07 March 2008

  • Lots to catch up on


    I feel like a computer wizard today.  I feel like Bill Gates.  The reason I haven't been able to blog for the past few weeks is because my computer wouldn't start when I got home from Dortmund.  Finally, after two weeks computer-less, I got it working today.  It took so long to get it fixed because I was determined to try to do it myself.  And, I surprised myself when I was actually able to get it going again.  The problem was with windows, and I did some research on the computer at my school about how to solve windows problems, and fortunately Erik had the original windows cd, and I was able to use that fix my problem.  It turned out to be pretty simple, and I'm glad I didn't pay some geek 100 Euros to do a 30 minute scan on my computer.  I've never considered myself a computer expert, so I am pretty proud that I was able to get it working on my own.  You'll also notice I was able to get rid the pink stripes on the background of the blog, but I can't figure out how to make the letters at the top not pink.  Going without a computer was good for me I think, I didn't realize how much of my day I spend on the computer until I didn't have one around.  I've had more time in the past few days to play my ukulele and read more.  One of my friends in Dortmund gave a German children's book called "Momo," and I couldn't put that down for the past few days.  I think of it as the "Winnie the Pooh" of the German language; maybe written for children, but really, really clever.  The hardest thing about not having a computer is not being able to listen to music.  All of my music is on the computer, and spending a day in a totally silent room can get kind of crazy.  I was really glad I'd bought that ukulele.  But the computer's running better than ever and now I can blast the new Hot Chip album and watch videos of cats doing funny things or robots dancing on Youtube again.The last two weeks have just been the usual routine of work and so on.  We had two weeks vacation in mid-February, and I spent a few days back in Dortmund visiting some people.  I stayed with a friend named Petra who had studied in Iowa City last year.  Her roommate was away for the week, so I had my own room and bed to sleep on.  One of the nicest things about Dortmund was just being to hang out in an actual apartment, watch a movie on a couch and eat breakfast in a nice, comfortable kitchen.  There will be a lot things I'll miss about Linz, but living in a dorm definitely will not be one of them.  I spent most of my time with the girls who had studied in Iowa, but one night I went back to one of my favorite bars on the Dortmund campus to see who was still hanging around there.  Not surprisingly, the place hasn't changed much in the past two years.  I saw loads of people I recognized from when I studied there, and they seemed pretty surprised to see me back around.  At midnight that night the Dortmund public transportation went on strike, so I had a chance to test my memory of the town.  I made it back to Petra's with out a problem, fortunately it wasn't cold.  I remember Dortmund the way I left it: really hot and filled with people for the World Cup.  It was strange to see the city in February.  Coincidentally, the day I arrived was almost exactly two years after I arrived the first time.  It was a short stay, but I really needed to get out of Linz for a while, everybody else was on vacation somewhere and I was getting some serious cabin fever.
    Before that vacation, my mom was here.  Lots of you have already probably talked to her about how it was, and I'm about to go eat dinner, so I'll keep it pretty brief.  We managed to get a lot done, and I think she saw quite a bit of Linz.  The couple weeks before she came we had unbelievable weather.  For the four days she was here, it was cold and foggy.  But the weather was still far better than the weather in Iowa City.  I think the highlights of her stay were the school ball and the day trip to the Salzburg area.  Mom happened to be here on the same weekend my school was hosting their annual Maturaball.  The school ball is kind of like our prom, except much, much bigger, and drinking is encouraged.  The agriculture ball is one of the biggest in Upper Austria and is held and the Linz Opera House.  They filled the place up, and I was told they set a record for number of drinks sold in one night at the building.  All of the big names in Linz were there, including the mayor.  The ball had a traditional Austrian clothing theme, I think mom got a kick out of seeing everybody in dirndl and lederhosen.  We didn't stay very late because the next day we left early for Salzburg and the Sound of Music tour.  As the tour went on, I started to realize that I really need to see the movie again.  I'm not even sure if I've ever seen it from start to finish.  Our tour guide had a lot of energy, which can sometimes be really obnoxious, but this guy was pretty entertaining.  The best part of the trip was the end, when the bus took us to the lakes and mountains region and we had some time to walk around the village where they filmed the wedding scene (which I don't really remember) and see some pretty great views.  I'll come back later this weekend and fill in some more details about the trip, but I'm off to get some dinner now.  I don't have much in store for the weekend.  Drew and I decided to go to Split, Croatia for the Easter holiday.  It's pretty far south and on the coast.  Here are some photos from the last few weeks:

    At the ball.

    Salzburg, on the left is the hotel Sacher where you can buy extremely overpriced (but world famous) cakes.

    Mom came to one of my classes and play Scattergories with class.

    In front of the Sound of Music gazebo, smaller than everybody expected...except for me, I didn't really remember what to expect.

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JohninLinz

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    • Member Since: 9/19/2007

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  • This is the new blog page about my time in Linz, Austria. I'll try to be better about keeping it up-to-date than I did last time. It's going to be a long trip, but I'm sure an adventure.

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